My Paris

This is a guide to My Paris…not an all encompassing itinerary to the city of lights but rather the places special to me that I find myself returning to again and again. Paris is divided into arrondissments that start at the center and spiral out like a snail, so each address corresponds with the number of its arrondissment.

Dèrriere, 69 Rue des Gravilliers 3eme

A charming and whimsical restaurant for the light at heart and serious about food. Feels a bit like John Malkovich invited you over to his house for dinner. Play ping pong between courses or head upstairs to the fumoir (smoking room) that has a secret entrance  disguised by a mirrored wardrobe you’ll have to step through to travel there. You can even dine sitting in bed. Reservations recommended. Map This

Jean-Bernard, 157 Rue Saint Martin 3eme

This little cafe southwest serving up southwest French cuisine is one of my favorite places in all of Paris. I truly believe magic happens here as it seems often when I go my friends and I come across someone special. The guy that runs the place now is anything but the original grouchy Jean-Bernard, but rather the most charming, kind, and funny young french men one could imagine. They definitely know their wines here, you can try them there or buy some for later. The menu is delicious, hearty, simple, and spectacular with things like chevre honey tartines and delicious tapas plate with the most amazing flavors you can imagine. They have amazing juices too. Well actually just everything about this place is amazing, including that it is located on a seriously charming little cobble stone passageway off Rue Saint Martin. www.oubuffer.com/jean-bernard, Map This

Breizh Café, 09 Rue Vieille du Temple 3eme

Delicious and extensive menu of traditional Breton crepes. If you’re worried about getting enough to eat, don’t be as these crepes are plenty filling. And the ciders are a nice way to wash it all down.  Reservations recommended for after 7:30pm. Map This

L’as du Fallafel, 34 Rue des Rosiers 4eme

Que up here for the best fallafel in Europe and a cheap eat. Don’t be tempted by the other fallafel hustlers’ cat calls on this charming cobble stone street of the Marais…L’as du Fallafel is the best of them all and worth the wait in line. Don’t forget to get the spicy sauce and enjoy your fallafel while walking through the neighborhood or dine at the nearby park of Place de Vosges. Map This

La Droguerie, 46 Rue des Rosiers 4eme

Just down the street from my favorite fallafel spot is this cute and quaint creperie. You will notice its royal blue facade right away. Decorated with antique art, bottles, tins, coffee grinders etc. from the North of France you would think this creperie has been there for decades but indeed it only arrived last year. Take a seat on the bar stools inside and enjoy people watching. Map This

Coffee Parisien, 4 Rue Princesse 6eme

American food with a bit of a french touch. Good for a casual brunch, lunch, and dinner and some tasty grub. Brush up on your U.S. history by reviewing the list of American Presidents on your place mat. They also have locations in the 16eme and Neuilly Sur Seine. Map This

Da Rosa, 62 Rue de Seine 6eme

This is a lovely little place I love to go eat before I head to the movies at Odéon in Saint Germain. They offer a selection of southern cuisine from France, Italy, and Spain comprised of risottos, charcuterie, salads, and more with amazing wine and sangria to wash it down. It’s nice to dine on the terrace in the evenings when the Argentinian guitarist stops by to play. Also a great place to shop gourmet olives and oils. Map This

Café de l’Industrie, 16 Rue Saint-Sabin 11eme

Typical Parisien but far from average restaurant for a nice meal, appropriate wine list, and affordable price. My friend Sophia first took me there and since I don’t head east of my neighborhood much, I enjoy having a great reason like Café de l’Industrie. On this same street they have two bars and also the restaurant. Map This

Relais de la Butte, 18 Rue Ravignan 18eme

Enjoy Montmartre without ending up at a tasteless tourist trap. On summer evenings I head up to this restaurant’s terrace to enjoy the sunset over Paris while having a glass of rosé. Once night falls I order dinner and enjoy my company and the accordion and cellists that pass by playing La Vie en Rose. The terrace cannot be reserved so arrive 45 minutes before sunset to ensure that you will be settled in and sipping some wine as the sun goes down. Map This

Pierre Hermé, 72 Rue Bonaparte 6eme – 4 rue Cambon 1ere

I have to give my sister credit for enlightening me and introducing me to Pierre. While Laduree is the oldest and most famous of the macaron artisans, Pierre Hermé brings fine art to the macaron with his more exotic and brave flavors. Each of his fillings has a base of white chocolate ganache that makes them extra smooth and creamy. Buy a box at the one in the 6eme and savor them at the Jardin du Luxembourg or  pick some upin 1ere at enjoy them in the Tuileries. www.pierreherme.com, Map This

Berko, 23 Rue Rambuteau 4eme

There is definitely no cupcake trend in Paris like there is in New York. That’s alright with me though as there is no need so long as Berko exists! This bakery has a magical assortment of adorable and delicious cupcakes in spectacular flavors like pastachio, stracciatella, oreo, blueberry and more. Better yet they come in big or mini sizes if you can’t make up your mind on which flavor to get or worry about over indulging. That’s not all though, as this place is one of the very few places in Paris that you can get real cheese cake! Grab a box to take away or sit at one of their outdoor tables and enjoy a tea or coffee over your cake. www.berko.fr, Map This

Le Bon Bon au Palais, 19 Rue Monge 5eme

I don’t know the neighborhood of the 5th in Paris very well, but recently on a Saturday stroll I discovered this adorable candy shop. The tables and walls are lined with giant glass terrines filled with the most colorful candies. These aren’t your average candies though, they are like none you have ever seen before. Between candied flowers and fleur d’oranger marshmallows you can  still find all your usual favorites though. This little shop will bring out the childish spirit in everyone, and I believe that was the owner Georges’ intention when he created this fun space. Visit their website for a cute little film about the store. www.bonbonaupalais.fr,Map This

That bon bon stand, Boulevard Saint Germaine and Rue de l’Odéon 6eme

At this intersection you will find the very famous Bon Bon stand where you can fill  a bag full of all sorts of colorful and sugary treats. There are three or four movie theaters at the Odéon intersection so its convenient to fill up a bag for you and a friend just before going to a film. Très Paris! Map This

Käramell, 15 Rue des Martyrs 9eme

Swedish candy store located at the foot of Montmartre. Chewy, soft, sweet, sour, whatever you desire, they have it. Fill up an assorted bag and burn some calories on an uphill walk to Le Sacre Coeur.  There you can eat your candies with some good company and a nice view. My sister turned me on to this little spot and it’s a great outing with a friend or date on a sunny day.www.karamell.fr, Map This.

Angelina, 226 Rue de Rivoli 1ere

A winter tradition with my girlfriends, on late starts to cold weekends, we bundle up in our finest fur coats (mostly inherited from grandmothers, mothers, or the thrifts) and indulge in some very rich hot chocolate. Choose from dark chocolate, milk chocolate, white chocolate, or African chocolate for this most delicious chocolat chaud. Map This

Laduree, 16 Rue Royale 1ere – 21 Rue Bonaparte 6eme – 75 Avenue des Champs Elysées 8eme

As touristy as it may be, Parisien business men and ladies who lunch still find themselves dining here after all this time. After nearly two years of living in Paris I still enjoy it and often find myself at one of their many locations. All things girly, French, and Marie Antoinette seem to attract me so this is certainly no wonder. Each location has its own charm but the original in the 6th with its Asian inspired tea room is the one I find most magical. If I am not having the Marie Antoinette tea with a rose religieuse patisserie, I have a rich hot chocolate. Don’t worry though, if you don’t have a sweet tooth you can get fresh salads and sandwiches with the usual espresso allongé. www.laduree.com, Map This

Georges, 4 Rue Beaubourg 4eme

Skip the security line for the Centre Pompidou museum by taking the Georges elevator to the left of the main entrance. Georges is a member of the Costes chains, so the food is overrated but they still make a mean mojito. Located at the top of Beaubourg, you can see all of Paris day and night from this spot. I live just down the street so come sunset, just one street block and a few flights of escalators lie between me and the best view in Paris. Map This

Le Caféotheque de Paris, 52 Rue de l’Hôtel de Ville 4eme

This charming little place lies on the right bank bordering Ile Saint Louis. Their wide selection of coffee and delicious little cakes make it a lovely place to take an afternoon pit stop after a long day of shopping in the Marais. They have the best selection of coffee from all around the world and the aroma that fills the place is just heavenly. There are lots of cute plush adorable retro chairs to plop yourself down in and plenty of new smiling faces ready to strike up a conversation. www.lecafeotheque.com, Map This

Mariage Frères, 30 Rue du Bourg Tibourg 4eme – 13 Rue des Grands Augustins 6eme – 250 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré 8eme

This comptoir de thé has been around since 1856, and you can surely taste that they know what they are doing. They don’t just have a menu of tea, they have a whole book (available for purchase) of the finest teas originating from all over the globe. Charming young french men in pristine white coats will show you to a table in the skylighted tea room or help you select the perfect blend to take home with you from the tea bar. I attempt to try a new flavor each time I go, but I often find myself returning to my favorites: Marco Polo, Rouge Provence, and Earl Grey Blu. www.mariagefreres.com, Map This

Chez Prune, 71 Quai de Valmy 10eme

I discovered this place with my sister and our friend last Easter. We decided to go for a walk along the Canal Saint Martin and stopped in for a drink. Maybe it was the irony of drinking a bloody mary on Easter Sunday, but I really liked this place. Ever since, I like to go back on sunny afternoons and sit next to the canal. Their mojitos are equally as delicious. Map This

Fifi Chachnil, 231 Rue Saint-Honoré 1ere

The French are known the world over for their fine lingerie. Fifi Chachnil certainly lives up to all those expectations, and wildly exceeds them. Tucked away from peeakaboo window shoppers in a quite courtyard of this chic shopping street, stumbling into the boutique’s sea of pastels, frills and satin is every girly girl’s dream. Fifi is not to be missed. www.fifichachnil.com, Map This

The Kooples, 191 Rue Saint-Honoré 1ere – 31 Rue des Rosiers 4eme – 61 Rue de Rennes 6eme

The Kooples is a new French label for both boys and girls, hence “the kooples.” Their ad campaigns are centered around real life cute and hip couples outfitted in threads from the store. www.thekooples.com, Map This

Kiliwatch, 64 Rue Tiquetonne 2eme

Kiliwatch is a hipster’s paradise. The store is a complete mix of the best of the new and the old. However, unlike a lot of vintage shops in Paris that just stock pile the store with junk, they actually take the time to track down the good stuff.   The result, you might pay a bit more but the prices are still good. They mix in new labels to keep the Kiliwatch style fresh. www.espacekiliwatch.fr, Map This

Manoush, 75 Rue Vieille du Temple 4eme – 16 Avenue Montaigne 8eme

The first time I came to Paris I established an instant love affair with Manoush.   In fact, each time I bring home something new my boyfriend automatically assumes it’s from Manoush.  Manoush  means gypsy in French, and the creator of the label lives in Morroco. She mixes the inspiration of her surroundings with her feminine French origins to come up with her adorable collections. While there are many locations in Paris, my local Marais Manoush is my favorite followed by their location on the ultra upscale Avenue Montaigne. J’adore! www.manoush.com, Map This

Tabio, 15 Rue Vieille du Temple 4eme

Some of the finest and cutest stockings, leggings, and socks in the world. They will even embroider your initials on your purchase for you. www.tabio.com, Map This

Suncoo, 52 Rue Roi de Sicile 4eme

Recently opened in the Marais, this tiny and adorable boutique has the cutest and most unique pieces. Half of the store is adorable little dresses, blouses, and heels by the brand while the other half is precious little items for the home. The style is a mix of Japanese cuteness and Parisian chic. If you are looking for something really special, and also affordable stop by Suncoo, you will love it! Map This

Joy, 38 Rue Roi de Sicile 4eme

Very pretty things. All things girly, light, beautiful and fun. Shop Sonia Rykiel, See by Chloe, Fred Perry and other preppy labels. Don’t miss their jewelry case filled with adorable ornaments from my favorite Bijoux de Sophie. Map This

Addicted, 4 Rue Saint Merri 4eme

Imagine Lady Gaga decided to open a really cheap but totally cool accessories store in Paris and that is Addicted. The place is small and the stuff is anything but quality but some how I find so many things I love here! From badass rings to cool fake crocodile duffle bags I always stop in to see what they are stocking. Map This

Noir Kennedy, 12 and 22 Rue du Roi de Sicile 4eme

Much like Kiliwatch, the two Noir Kennedy stores mix vintage threads with new labels like Cheap Monday denim. The dressings rooms are old red British phone booths and clothes are sometimes displayed in coffins. Don’t be scared away though if you think it looks too punk, go inside and you will find there is something for everyone. www.noirkennedy.fr, Map This

Alexandra Sofja, 218 Boulevard Saint Germain 7eme

This little shop is magical. Imagine Mary Poppins inspired umbrellas and girlie accessories piled high for you to feast your eyes on. It’s exactly the time of incredible and unique boutique you imagine yourself stumbling upon when in Paris. Also a great place to pick up a very special souvenir. www.alexandrasofjer.com, Map This

Printemps Shoes, 64 Boulevard Haussmann 9eme

Not original at all but my favorite shoe section in Paris. PERIOD. www.printemps.com, Map This

Porte de Vanves Flea Market, Avenue Georges Lafenestre & Avenue Marc Sangnier 14eme

While it can seem hard to find a deal at a flea market these days in Paris, there are still affordable treasures to be found at the Porte de Vanves Flea Market. This is my favorite flea and many of my favorite treasures found throughout my apartment come from this market. Open Saturdays (mornings) and Sundays (all day). Map This

Le Magnifique,  25 Rue de Richelieu 1ere

Never have I been to Le Magnifique and not stayed several hours longer than I should have.  And I have even seen the sun coming up as I leave. I have also spilled my fair share of cocktails on their fur rugs in the mirrored Salon Main Delon. However I wouldn’t be the only one guilty of such good times au Magnifique. They even have the “California” table but if you want to sit there bring your credit card if you know what I mean. The playlist is the perfect mix of  oldies and newies. Dress to impress and ring the door bell when you arrive. www.lemagnifique.fr, Map This

Le Cha Cha, 47 Rue Berger 1ere

Great for dancing, and I have burned my fair share of calories there on the dance floor. When I am giving my feet a rest I plop myself down on the plush vintage velvet couches. Rock n’ Roll baby! Map This

Experimental Cocktail Club, 37 Rue Saint-Sauveur 2eme – Curio Parlor, 16 Rue des Bernardins 5eme – Prescription Cocktail Club, 23 Rue Mazarine 6eme

The founders of these three bars seem to keep outdoing themselves. Starting with Experimental, they migrated to the left bank to open the other two. Inspired by the speakeasies of the prohibition you could easily walk by and miss the place. But once you know the nightlife gem that lies behind the closed doors and heavy drapery you’ll treck clear across the city in rain or snow to go there. Once inside exposed brick walls, chandeliers,  and taxidermied curiosities await you. Oh and so does Paris’ most delicious cocktail menu. Great during the week or earlier in the night to share a drink with a friend or stay later and dance after they turn up the music. Map This

Social Club, 142 Rue Montmartre 2eme

Bust out your high dunks and dance your little tush off to some awesome musical acts from all over the world. If you’re young and fun, come as your are. If you’re old come anyway as long as your fun. www.parissocialclub.com, Map This

La Perle, 78 Rue Vieille du Temple 3eme

Very typical French bar. The hip and stylish congregate here to share a drink weekdays and weekends alike. It closes early (1am) even on the weekends so my friends and I pre-party at La Perle before heading elsewhere. Map This

Le Mecanique Ondulatoire, 8 Passage Thière 11eme

Definitely dirty, but somehow my friends and I end up here more often than I previously realized. It’s always on the weekend and very rock n’ roll in spirit with a typical young Bastille scene. Map This

Favala Chic, 18 Rue du Faubourg du Temple 11eme

Chic might be an overstatement, but Favala is certainly no slum. From Thursday nights on it’s packed with people sipping on caparinhas and mojitos. Check your coat at the door because it will get hot. I have danced on the wood tables there once or twice before…once the dinner service was done of course. Make a reservation and have dinner, then stay for the party later to be sure you will get in. www.favelachic.com, Map This

The Bottle Shop, 5 Rue Trousseau 11eme

This bar is like the best of French and American culture brought together. A cool young expat crowd with a cosmopolitan french mix makes for great atmosphere and good time. The “Cheap Blonde” beer on tap is exclusive to The Bottle Shop and their other bar Stoly’s and a great Belgian beer. Map This

La Famille, 41 Rue de Trois Frères 18eme

Rue de Trois Frere is definitely one of the best streets in Montmartre and part of that is thanks to this bar called La Famille. The fanciest thing about this place is their elaborate drinks which baffle me every time I drink them. Their passed to you over the bar steaming off smoke from what I suspect is some dry ice trick. There mojitos come complete with frozen sorbet in the top and gummy eyeballs on a stick. If it sounds weird it’s because it is, but none the less delicious. Very authentic and very cool, be sure to stop in any day after 8pm to try it. Map This

Sweat Shop, 13 Rue Lucien Sampaix 10eme

Not far from the charming Canal Saint Martin, this amazing little concept café atelier is owned by some very adorable girls. Based on a philosophy of “buy less, sew more” these D.I.Y. divas rent out sewing machine for six euros an hour. For five euros you can enjoy the coffee and cake special (among other delights) while you work on your masterpiece. Don’t know how to sew? No problem! They give lessons in sewing and knitting! Such an amazing idea and adorable little place that is a must see for any fashionable fille in Paris. www.sweatshopparis.com, Map This

Parc des Buttes Chaumont, 1 Place Armand Carrel 19eme

Some people might think Buttes Chaumont is a bit out of the way, but I personally think its worth the metro ride. I have shared afternoons in this park with many friends and my sister. My favorite memory there is from last spring when I and three friends packed up our art supplies and blankets. We sunbathed, played music, and worked on oil pastels all afternoon. There is a tall island in the middle of the lake with a lookout perched upon a rock where you can take in a panaromic view of Paris, with plenty of green hills surrounding for everyone to lounge. Map This

Bois de Bologne, 16eme

On the complete opposite side of town from Parc des Buttes Chaumont you can find Paris’ largest park Le Bois de Bologne that borders the 16th and Neuilly Sur Seine. The park, that is more of a forest actually, was known in the 1800’s as a place to see and been seen as the wealthy took afternoon strolls through the park in their finest attire. Nowadays sadly the park is sometimes better known for prostitutes, but this is a side of the park that doesn’t taint my afternoons and late mornings there as I often walk with my boyfriend and his little doggy Enzo. The Bagatelle Gardens are contained within the borders of the park and there you can find L’Orangerie and some rather talkative peacocks. In the spring and summer you can even rent boats to row around the lake amongst the swans. Map This

Mosquée de Paris, 2 Square Robert Montagne 5eme

I spent some time in the Middle East on a study abroad and through much sight seeing discovered what a peaceful place mosques can be. When I moved to Paris I was pleased to find that the Mosquée de Paris also has a charming cafe complete with running fountains and chirping birds. It is a great place to have some North African cuisine and enjoy baklava or other traditional pastries afterward. Map This